January 3, 2010
Oh, man…you’ll have to read this in shifts everyone!! South Africa was beyond spectacular!! So many experiences, but before we tell you about S.A., just one last story from the Ghana we will miss so much. While at immigration and just as Ann passes over her passport for stamping, she receives a phone call from her boyfriend, Don! Just as she answers, the female officer demands that she get off the phone and pay a 20 Cedi ($5.00) fine for talking on the phone. You can imagine the ensuing “convo” over this last minute money grab!! Refusing to pay, we walked away shaking our heads, thinking “TIA” – This is Africa!
We arrive in Jo’Burg with nervous anticipation. Patrick runs the Mbizi Backpackers about 15 minutes from the airport and just enough outside the city centre so that we are feeling more comfortable…until we hear Patrick’s stories! It’s been 2 weeks since his last break-in, 3 months since his car stereo was ripped off (3rd one), a nasty carjacking next door….bla, bla, bla! But we are oblivious to this; we see only a peaceful and homey atmosphere; a pool, ducks flying overhead that sound like they have a kazoo in their throats, “Stretch” the rabbit wandering about and nice people like Tony from down under for interesting conversation. Nevertheless, as we walk down to the ATM, a 5 minute walk, we only half jokingly laugh, thinking we haven’t been this nervous since the West Edmonton Mall!
We did a tour of the black township of Soweto. Soweto can best be described as row after row of tin shacks, a squatter camp with dirt floors and, for the most part, no electricity or running water. After our experience of Ghana, Soweto, while shocking to see in the midst of a big modern city, was interesting but sadly familiar. We also visited the Hector Peiterson and Apartheid Museums…both were extremely powerful and moving, detailing the dark history of apartheid rule. There was a wonderful Nelson Mandela exhibit…truly a great man leading his country into the light. A tour of downtown Jo’Burg, empty in the shadow of fear and paranoia, hotels mothballed and moved to the suburbs, emphasizes the long road of change still ahead.
From Jo’Burg, we embarked on a 4 day safari to Kruger National Park. Kruger measures a whopping two million hectares, or approximately the size of the whole of Wales or Israel! The vast majority of it is flat, and rather dull to the eye. But the safari was a blast! It was the circle of life tour…we saw 4 of the big five (water buffalo, elephant, rhino, lion but not the elusive leopard!), lions chowing down on a zebra, horny and frustrated bull elephants knocking down trees and blocking our path and thanks to a good old farm upbringing, Tim spotted a water buffalo cow giving birth!! And… we even added our own wrinkle to the circle by running over a baby impala with our safari truck…it thumped, thumped under our vehicle but jumped up and ran off to join its Mom, who probably gave it a good talking to! Lots of driving and you are constantly on the lookout for wildlife. Everyone, however, began to ignore Ann after several exclamations of “Hang on….I think I just saw a lion….aww, never mind, it’s just another Impala!”
After two nights in safari tents listening to the “laughter” of hyenas (actually it was mostly snoring) we spent our last night in a beautiful lodge with four-poster canopy beds, great food, wine and glistening swimming pool. We said goodbye to our great safari mates who made it a roaring “wild” time… too corny Mel, Neil, Jane, Alex and Karen??
As amazing as our experience was at Kruger check out Battle at Kruger to be really amazed!!
Riding the Baz Bus!
After Kruger we cruised down the east coast of South Africa from St. Lucia to Cape Town on the Baz Bus. Being chauffeured from backpackers to backpackers along with a cast of characters doing the same thing was simply the best way to travel. Meeting and re-meeting up with amazing folks, who became all too brief, but close compadres, sharing our collective journeys and others “sharing” each other’s beds….if you know what I mean??! St. Lucia was our first chance to walk the shores of the Indian Ocean…absolutely gorgeous stretch of sandy beaches and thundering surf. We mentioned a cast of characters and two whom definitely stood out were found at the Budget Backpackers in St. Lucia. Trevor and Jacque were safari game guides extraordinaire and two great guys. This was one of our days: woke up to what we thought were 20 pound squirrels on the roof…but it was about 15 monkeys (a barrel of them) and babies were bounding and swinging through the mango trees. While that was quite entertaining, we had to head out for a 7:00 walk into croc and hippo territory. Saw a number of zebra, impala, and snakes, hippos in water (not 6 meters away), wildebeest, and warthogs! Great fun with Catrina and 2 others! Made a lovely brekkie, then packed a lunch, rented bikes and peddled to the beach with a couple of South African beers… to enjoy the wild Indian Ocean. After enjoying the sites around this small community, we grabbed a nap and then got going again with a couple of rum and cokes out on the veranda with Catrina, Trevor and Jacque. Waiting for total darkness and after a few more rums, we hopped back in the safari 4 x 4 “buckie” for the night drive. Couldn’t swing a cat without seeing a hippo out grazing!! Thrilled because we had only seen their nostrils in the water!! After my suggestion to come back to the beach at 4:00 to see the sunrise…the others jumped at the idea………………………………….and then Tim and I bowed out!! Freakin’ wimps (tired & old wimps). But what a day! Lovin’ South Africa!! The “Wild Dog” and the “Baboon” will be remembered for our hippo night drive, braai’s and good fun…thanks boys! And, thanks to Catrina, our “Lioness”, for keeping us all real. We had great fun labeling all our friends as jungle animals…we won’t go into detail but one of you is definitely the Happy Hippo!!
The whole coast of South Africa is stunning, with more beautiful vistas then the last, around each corner. Coffee Bay was no exception but what really stood out was the truly bohemian lifestyle at the Coffee Shack Backpackers. Probably the only place we felt, ahem, our age! At one point, we stood with the only other boomer couple and watched the “kids” make crafts, just like the many of us who waited for cake to be served and grab bags to be handed out at our own kid’s birthday parties. Only these kids were making masks so they could drink free vodka-laced punch for the evening and smoke the odd spliff!! Thank goodness for the McDonough’s, Kevin, Kathy and their lovely daughter Hailey. We stayed in a rustic beehive type cottage on a steep hill across the river from the backpackers. We arrived back from a 3 hour hike from Hole in the Wall (treacherous path only suitable for mountain goats , not suitable for old goats like us or kids on crack)…needing showers. Crossing the river proved challenging at best, balancing on poorly laid and unstable rocks, but really challenging when the tide came in and the water was up to our knees! Luckily Kevin and Kathy had some wine and cheese to pass the time while the tide went out and we were able to cross for dinner. Coffee Bay got its name from a ship wreck carrying coffee….makes sense, eh? And the coffee was really good! We didn’t go swimming that day, but did hear 4 days later of a shark attack…and no sign of Quint from Jaws!
At Buccaneers Backpackers in Chinsta, we had the privilege of meeting Matty Hamilton originally from Ottawa. Matt left the “velvet rut” and is the bartender at this amazing spot where we slept in a safari tent, shared coed bathrooms, and drooled over a view that was spectacular! Matty has authored a great book on his travels and experiences – “Through Travel and Error”. Tim, who always seems to need a book…I don’t know where he finds the time…picked up an autographed copy (thanks Matt!) and thought it was a great read for anyone on the road or for those armchair travelers out there. Here’s a link to Matt’s site Mad Matty’s World.
A few more stops, Port Elizabeth, Jeffrey’s Bay (surfer’s paradise), Durban…but our favourite was Wilderness!! While catching our breath from the view from our posh room, we deliriously agree to go paragliding!! (see attached pictures). Celebrating the amazing rush with two double scotches, we sign up for 4 hour horseback riding the next day! Feeling a few extra muscles the following day, we reminisced about the huge friendly tortoise who kept putting his foot on ours wanting attention, swimming at the water falls, and cantering up the hills towards home. This could only be outdone with meeting up with Tally and Rami from Israel on their honeymoon and Ann getting up to watch the sunrise. (sorry, no pictures of sunrise, I’m pathetic! Ann is writing this part.) But, we do have lots of photos of our new friends because we met up with them 2 more times!! Wouldn’t anyone want to hang with us on their honeymoon?? (Don’t answer that!)
Our trip into Cape Town, our last on the Baz Bus, was layered with golden valleys surrounded by velvet multi- shade green mountains, lit by the sun and shadows cast by the clouds. This, the Garden Route, is full of huge sheep and ostrich farms, hundreds of them, out grazing. As we draw closer to Cape Town, we notice more vineyards, rocky mountain faces…and as we round one particular corner, the whole vista of Cape Town opens up before us – the ocean, Lions Head, Table Mountain! But best of all, we see the sun go down…meaning Ann saw the sunrise and sunset in the same day!! Pretty cool, eh?
Already, this blog is too long, and we will not be able to do Cape Town justice on paper or megabytes! And honestly, if you have lost it with us…we understand!! But……….We stayed at a very cool backpackers, with a view of Table Mountain. Equipped with everything a traveler could need; friendly staff, restaurant, en suite room, and relaxed, funky atmosphere. We did what we usually do and headed for the bar!! I know we have mentioned the lovely people, and there have been plenty, but some individuals are worthy of boring you to death with our praise! Two girls from the States, Dana and Megan, wowed us with their knowledge & enthusiasm for their jobs in …we think Botswana. Africa is so lucky to have talented and dedicated people like these two beautiful girls.
Christmas was spent in shorts and Santa hats at the Cape of Good Hope. We then enjoyed a huge turkey dinner at the Backpack with 40 or so other wanderers. Boxing Day, didn’t find us in a mall as usual but instead on a wine tour around the Stellenbosch area. They’re not too stingy with the tasting portions, so the five of us had a fun day. Ann, always showing interest in others, has asked a number of people along the way if they have had a chance to “get out and about?”. Basically, meaning have you been able to visit a few tourist sites. However, this is where our Canadian accent gets us in trouble, much to one of our UK wine tour buddy’s delight. He doubles over in laughter when a poor girl from Germany looks totally confused wondering why the hell Ann has asked her if she has had a chance “get out on a boat”! As they say in SA…EEESH!
Cape Town has so much to offer. We spent the part of two days just wandering around the beautiful water front. And, on the Sundays there are free concerts in Kirstenbosch Park, a beautiful botanical garden. We were lucky to see the band Electric Ashtray…I’m sure everyone has one of their discs!
Both Ann and I have read Paul Theroux’s Dark Star Safari and were excited to take the train from Cape Town to Jo’Burg. We boarded the luxurious Premiere train and like Paul we were treated to 26 hours of luxury and gorgeous scenery. As we cut through the Great Karoo, “dusk approached then darkness descended, dissolving the light, the high plains going blue, then purple then black with a flattening orange stripe of sunset in the sky that made the landscape blacker”. We just thought it was a really cool sunset along with a full moon!
Arriving back in Jo’Burg, we’ve come full circle from where it all began. We arrived in South Africa with the knowledge that it was one of the world’s most dangerous cities in the world and that reputation is unfortunately, well earned. However, we left imbued with the beauty and complexity that is South Africa. There is a sense of wonderment and untouched landscapes, the beautiful fragrances found along the Garden Route, the briny salt air of its coasts and ahem…even the malodorous smell of BO! South Africans are busy readying themselves to welcome the world to FIFA 2010, …as we pass signs displaying “Show the World Our Humanity” and “Make sure you can say “I was there!””
We end our visit wishing good luck with the World Cup and we’ll be leaving “just now” but we hope to return before “now, now”. To South Africa, we say thank you and to that… they say “Plaasure”!
See everyone for “Curry in a Hurry” as we fly to India next!!