March 30, 2010 – Perth, Australia
So we arrived in Ozzie land and you know…we were pretty excited to be back into the “westernized” world. As much as we had enjoyed Asia & South East Asia, a great deal of what we were seeing was becoming far too common. After 3 months, the tuk-tuk touts, the noise, the food, the…everything…just didn’t hold the same excitement or wonderment for us. Was it us…more than likely. We had been on the road for almost 8 months and as lucky as we are to have this opportunity, the routine of travel, especially in third world/developing countries, can take its toll. Either that or our brains are just full!
With the possible exception of South Africa, we had spent the last several months in non-western countries. So arriving in Perth was a kind of reverse culture shock we weren’t really prepared for or anticipating. There is a sudden, yet subtle, familiarity to everything. You are no longer pestered by street vendors, taxi or tuk-tuk drivers. Traffic is no longer chaotic. The mixed bag of street food is no longer available. Lush trees line the streets and garbage seems non-existent. And…it all feels so WEIRD!! There is a distinct phantasmagorical (love that thesaurus!) feeling to it all. And, when you search for an explanation or a reason for this emotional state, the answer we came up with is “my God, this is ho-hum!!” Where’s the challenge in this white-bread, buttoned down existence?? The most danger we encountered was crossing the street in this left-lane driving land. But what a great gift this epiphany was…it meant we had actually gotten out of our western mind sets and for a brief period of time experienced how others lived. The western mind focuses on “getting there”, while the eastern mind focuses on “being here”. Neither is right or wrong, they’re just different.
Perth is the financial engine of Australia. The state is rich in mining resources and the whole area is experiencing a tremendous economic boom. Everyone is there to make their millions. It’s not unlike Fort McMurray except for the freezing winters, tailing ponds and the ubiquitous Tim Hortons (good times, good memories, eh Mike??) And, like Fort McMurray, it is in its own little economic bubble where prices and wages are dumbfounding. The minimum wage here is $17.00 an hour and workers at McDonalds (they call them ‘Mackers here) earn 19 bucks an hour. We went, from the week before, paying something like 40 cents American for a beer in Cambodia to paying $10.00 a pint in Aussie dollars…crackies!
But our expensive beer also meant that we had the great fortune to meet Paul & Christina. We got chatting with them on a patio in Perth and out of the blue Paul invites us to stay at their place while we are in town. So that was pretty cool…and we did…but first we rented a car and drove south to do a little exploring. In Augusta, we saw where the south Pacific and Indian Oceans meet up at Cape Leeuwin. And, we saw our first kangaroos!! We considered this pretty amazing before we realized, the “pesky buggers” are everywhere…including crowding the putting greens during our round of golf.
In Margaret River, we had a “Margie’s Day Out” wine tour adventure. The Ozzie sense of humour, when you can understand them, is hilarious…lots of “she’ll be apples” or “she’ll be right, mate”, “fair dinkum” and pretty well everyone is a “fuckin’ wanker!” … So, we, along with some Brits (they’re Pommies here), some Yanks (Yankers) and a group of giggling girls from Perth, had an outing that truly was the “duck’s nuts”!
After a couple more stops, we headed north of Perth, up along the Indian ocean, towards the mines. Its not the true outback, but you literally drive for miles seeing nothing but red earth and scrub brush. Outside the small fishing village of Cervantes, was the Pinnacles Desert. There are thousands of eerie limestone pillars, some up to 4m tall, rising out of the yellow quartz sand. Apparently, the pinnacles are from seashells from an earlier epoch rich in marine life. Whatever, it provided great moonscape scenery that bordered giant, white-as-snow sand dunes and the stunning greenish blue ocean.
Just outside of Perth, we stayed at Yanchep National Park amongst the oldest of the Western Australian. It’s nestled in forests where 100’s of Black-Tailed Parakeet rest on their journey north…what a squawk ….times 400!! We took a stroll around the lake and ran across, and almost into, a giant emu, along with more roos, pukekos (a flightless bird species we swear somehow missed the evolutionary bus!) and koalas…well, the koalas were actually in an enclosed colony…but we saw them!! There was also a local watering hole with lots of Speight’s on tap, a juke box stuck in the ’80’s and a tim-friendly pool table!
Once in Perth, we phoned Christina and Paul to see if they were still up for a visit and of course they were…the Aussies are so friendly! They are in the final stages of finishing renovations on their home and turning it into a B & B. Both are talented and skilled at the art of renos and what a beautiful home, it is! We were their “B&B guinea pigs”…what a tough assignment…and treated to the best breakfast smoothies EVER!!! Christina is a health nut and raw food is her expertise. Oh, we did eat well and of course drank too much wine & beer, enjoying sensational hospitality and Paul’s (an ex-Pommie himself) rattling wit and humour. And, even when we “miscalculated” our departure date…oops…Christina and Paul took this in stride and put us up for one more night!! Perth, anyone?…boy, do we have the perfect accommodation for you!
We took the train from their place to Freemantle… the quintessential beach town and surfer’s paradise. Cozy funky, bars, unique shops, with a time-warped historic, sea side village atmosphere…bustling even on a rainy, chilly day. And, we had talked Christina into cooking us another amazing meal if we picked up fresh fish at the wharf. None of that Captain Highliner that Fuzz keeps in his freezer! Dinner was whipped up, another bottle of wine drank, taxi called and promises made to meet again. We hope so…these two are dear, dear people.
New Zealand….here we come. Warn the sheep and get the plough shears sharpened!!
Comments
Erin Clement:
June 3, 2010 – Hey guys!! Your trip sounds awesome. I really enjoyed reading your Ghana entries, I am so glad you got time with kids and enjoyed your time there. Your WA trip looks great I love Perth and did quite a few of the same tours you guys did. Go to a footy game for sure! Keep livin’ the dream, best of luck with the rest of your trip!!!
Cheers Erin
June 13, 2010 – Aw come on guys! It has been a long time since your last entry on March 30! Your vicarious travel mates are needing to know what is happening on our trip!! Love to you. xo
June 15, 2010 – yep….I’m waitin’ too…lol
June 16, 2010 – Me too!! We all need some updates, where are you guys? xoxo
June 20, 2010 – Sorry for the delay…there was a writers strike. The monkeys are now back to work!! Heaps of love, T&A